Friday, April 29, 2011

Sleeper Bus, Angry Bum, Cappadocia


BM and I had sort of ran our wheels over those parts of Istanbul we wanted to see and subsequently had stagnated into a period of watching youtube videos in the hotel room. Lamas with hats amused us.

We had checked our money and consulted the map. We’d hummed over Amsterdam, huhhed over Israel.

We opted for Cappadocia, a 10-hour bus ride from Istanbul (no toilets), but still in Turkey.  Also a 10 hour bus-ride back (no toilets). The set-up was not ideal for miserable bums needing to do miserable things often (I still don't know...parasites or bacteria??), but it gave me an opportunity to strengthen my anal sphincter.
 
I discovered that the difference between a "sleeper bus" and just a plain old bus is that a sleeper bus is driven at night, and you're sort of expected to sleep, whereas in a regular bus you merely can sleep.  OK then. Great.   

Cappadocia, in west-central Turkey, isn’t really a place.  Historically, it was a place (one that gets mention in the bible), but these days the word is kept alive for tourism purposes, but roughly coincides with the Nevshir province of Turkey. The word "Cappadocia" roughly means “the part of Turkey that sort of looks like this”:
 or this
 and has structures carved out of ancient volcanic ash, like this:

Stunning landscapes. 

Volcanoes made the place this way.  

Coming from Jeju (in S.Korea), I thought I was familiar with volcanic landscapes, and as usual, I was wrong.  Unlike Jeju, where volcanic rocks were formed by cooled magma, Cappadocia's volcanoes covered the land in ash rather than lava. By comparison, the rocks formed from ash are softer in color and composition, which is why the area has so many structures carved into them.


Also carved into the rocks are actual friggin' cities, as in underground labyrinths that go several stories downward, complete with (remnants of) churches, wineries, farms, and all you'd want in a city except for the sun.  They're old (think Byzantium times/Bronze Age) and, from what I understand, not used for daily life unless needed for protection. They were a safe place to go when the neighbors were in rape & pillage, warring mode.  
Going down (and down and down), the air gets different and your sense of claustrophobia starts to act up a little.  If you're a nervous, overly-imaginative human, you get the sense that the earth is just going to collapse itself and fill in its holes any second.
Many of the passage-ways were carved to be deliberately small so that invading armies would be slowed and ideally killed one by one in single file, leaving corpses to further hinder the invaders. 

My claustrophobia and angry bowels were fighting for attention after about an hour in there; I was happy to leave.  Here's BM's bum, climbing stairs to eventually surface above ground again. 





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